Wednesday, August 5

In the dim, cylindrical concrete interior of a disused water tower, Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg took a 180 degree turn from her previous work for Studio Constance. Her label is noted for luxe shearlings, good-fitting jeans, and knitwear, all essentials for Scandi girls dealing with Arctic temps. The fall season is more in line with the product range than the summer one, as the designer noted. “We’re a Scandinavian outerwear brand, so it’s like, okay, what is our spring collection?”

The answer for spring 2026 was a rather autumnal and garment-focused show with some intriguing and sexy mesh pieces as well as tops made of offcut leather. For 2027, the designer’s approach was both more narrative—she unleashed women that looked like half-dressed, wayward ladies in waiting for Marie Antoinette—and disorienting. We’ve seen panniers for several seasons now, but they were a complete surprise here, especially as they were standalone looks that weren’t mixed with more expected denim.

The pieces that looked like they were made of sheets or tablecloths (some of them in fact were) was Almberg’s way of paying homage to her grandmother, from which the brand takes its name. This roots-affirming paean comes at the same time that the designer is having her own full-circle moment—she is pregnant.

The Swede described the spring lineup as “more emotional and more based on the current state of my feelings.” Almberg’s own changing body had her thinking about shapely silhouettes, some pulled from history, which felt dated and impractical. A body-con jersey tank dress with a drop-waist delineated with a delicate ruffle (look 10) offered a lean alternative with just the right amount of flourish.

One wished there had been more denim because the two examples on offer were so good. There was a short skirt with a deep yoke and inset pleats on the side and a floor-length one that was pieced and slit and shown with a slouchy black sweater open at the back. In a collection that seemed to have gone a bit off the rails, this look’s grunge princess vibe one you could easily lose your head over.

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