Should You Wear SPF in Winter? The Answer May Surprise You

Most of us know that sunscreen in summer is nonnegotiable if you want to lower your risk of sunburn and skin cancer. But should you also wear SPF in winter, when the skies are gray and there’s little sun to speak of?

It’s a divisive subject. On the one hand, we’re told to wear SPF year-round, even in winter, to prevent wrinkles. On the other hand, we’re warned not to apply sunscreen on cloudy winter days, as it puts us at risk of vitamin D deficiency. So who’s right?

We asked dermatologists and nutritionists to break down the common myths around facial sunscreen in winter and how to incorporate it into your routine at this time of year for the best results.

Should you still wear SPF in winter?

It’s true that UVB rays (ones that cause sunburn and increase the risk of skin cancer) aren’t as strong between October and March. “The lowest risk of sunburn is in the winter months because less energy from UVB reaches us from the sun,” says Dr. Mary Sommerlad, a consultant dermatologist who is also part of Elizabeth Arden’s Derm Collective. “The sun is lower on the horizon, and thicker cloud coverage can also reduce how much UVB energy hits the skin.”

UVA rays, on the other hand, are present all year. “UVA rays remain constant year-round,” says dermatologist Dr. Ophelia Veraitch. “UVA penetrates deeply into the skin, driving premature aging, pigmentation, and collagen breakdown—and crucially, UVA penetrates through clouds and windows.”

For this reason, both Dr. Sommerlad and Dr. Veraitch recommend wearing sunscreen even when it’s cold and gloomy outside. “You will also need to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen in winter if you’re using retinol or exfoliators or you have laser treatments,” adds Dr. Sommerlad.

Does wearing SPF in winter block vitamin D production?

It’s true that 90% of absorbable vitamin D comes from the sun’s UVB rays. But here’s the thing: We don’t often get the level of sunlight the body needs to make its own vitamin D, even during the height of summer, says Rhian Stephenson, nutritionist and founder of Artah.

A study in the British Journal of Dermatology, supported by the British Association of Dermatologists, plus a review of 75 papers on sunscreen and vitamin D, also found that sunscreen does not prevent vitamin D production.

One explanation is that no matter how much sunscreen you use, or how high the SPF number, some UV rays will still reach your skin. To break it down, an SPF 15 guards against 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 protects against 97%, and SPF 50 blocks out about 98%. Besides, people who don’t wear SPF year-round are often deficient in vitamin D too.

The consensus among many experts is that supplementing vitamin D is just as good as sun exposure. “The recommended daily intake of vitamin D, per the National Institutes of Health (NIH), is between 400 to 800 IU (international units) daily, or 10 to 20 micrograms daily,” says Claire Shortt, nutritionist and lead scientist at FoodMarble. Good options include Artah Essential D3/K2 and Wild Nutrition Food-Grown Vitamin D, or BetterYou D1000 Vitamin D Daily Oral Spray, if you prefer a spray over a tablet.

You can further boost your levels by including egg yolks, oily fish such as salmon and mackerel, and dairy that is fortified with vitamin D in your diet.

Is SPF 30 better than SPF 50 in winter?

The answer to this depends on several factors, including your skin type, concerns, and whether you’ve had skin cancer, are on medication, or traveling abroad.

SPF is a measure of protection from UVB rays. “For UK winters, SPF 30 is sufficient for most people as long as the filters are good,” says Dr. Veraitch.

According to Dr. Sommerlad, on a normal wintery day, the focus should be on choosing a facial sunscreen with a high UVA rating (typically marked by the letters UVA within a circle or a PA++++ rating) to protect against hyperpigmentation (clover-shaped brown splotches on the skin) and damage to your skin’s DNA, elastin, and collagen (the springs and stuffing of your skin).

Asked whether a moisturizer with added SPF would suffice, Dr. Veraitch told Glamour: “Most stand-alone SPFs are formulated much like moisturizers, but they offer more reliable protection than moisturizers with added SPF.”

If you’re going skiing, however, you will need to up your sunscreen game and regularly reapply an SPF 50+, as snow reflects up to 80% of the sun’s light. “These rays are more likely to be directed at exposed skin,” says dermatologist Dr. Alexis Granite. “UV exposure is even stronger at higher altitudes because the atmosphere is thinner, providing less protection.”

On the slopes, Dr. Granite recommends being as diligent when slathering on a high-factor sunscreen as when you’re on the beach in the height of summer. “Apply sunscreen early in the morning, but when out skiing all day, it’s important to reapply every two to three hours,” she says.

Likewise, “if you have a history of skin cancers, or are taking medications that make you prone to burning, stick with an SPF 50 in the winter months, regardless of the fact that UVB is less intense,” adds Dr. Sommerlad.

How to apply sunscreen in winter?

Step 1: Cleanse as normal.

Step 2: Apply a serum of your choice, whether that’s an antioxidant-rich formula or a more targeted approach using tranexamic acid for pigmentation and niacinamide or azelaic acid if you’re prone to congestion.

Step 3: Apply an SPF 30 or SPF 50 sunscreen.

Step 4: Apply moisturizer. “Some sunscreens function like moisturizers, so you may not need an extra layer of hydration,” says Dr. Veraitch. But if you do, “and because skin can feel drier in winter, using a moisturizer over your SPF can be helpful.”

The key difference between a winter sunscreen routine and a summer one is that you don’t need to reapply your SPF 30 or SPF 50 as often. “If you’re mostly indoors, a morning application is enough,” says Dr. Veraitch. “Reapply only if you’re outdoors for prolonged periods or sitting next to large windows all day.”

Best SPF for winter

Yo-yoing between bracing temperatures outside and blasts of hot air indoors can leave skin parched and more prone to redness. “Winter SPFs with added skin-care benefits can be helpful,” says Dr. Veraitch, who recommends scanning the ingredients label for hydrating hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which calms inflammation and strengthens the barrier. Both can be found in Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF 50 and Beauty of Joseon Day Dew Sunscreen SPF 50.

For that sun-care-meets-skin-care buttery consistency, look no further than Augustinus Bader The Sunscreen SPF 50, which additionally contains a moisturizing algae extract. Squalane is another big hitter when it comes to hydration.

This post was originally published in Glamour UK.