Reading might be an endangered pastime, but it hasn’t gone out of fashion chez Stine Goya. The designer built her spring 2027 collection around Florian Illies’ book, ye. “It was about how all the European artists and thinkers and scientists at that moment were living their life as if there was no tomorrow,” the designer explained. “There was really this sense of creativity and how they were working together that was really inspiring to me; there was something that felt so parallel to the time that we live in today.”
AI’s disruption is happening gradually. A hundred years ago, the shock of the new was often tied to specific events. Goya referred to the International Exhibition of Modern Art at the Armory in New York at which the American public was introduced to avant-garde expressions such as Cubism, where Marcel Duchamp’s painting Nude Descending a Staircase really got under critics’ skin. In Paris, Vaslav Nijinsky’s erotic performance of the Ballets Russes’ Afternoon of a Faun, caused a scandal. Goya played the music Igor Stravinsky created for that ballet at the beginning of her show and invited an inline skater to perform.
In order to ensure that every guest had a front row seat at the brand’s runway comeback after a two year absence, seats were arranged in concentric circles, and models walked around in circles, somewhat like a clock, noted Thomas Herz, the company CEO and Goya’s partner. There’s some irony that a brand that seems to have been treading water for some time should have a breakout moment at a show with spiralling choreography, yet so it was that Goya broke out of a repetitive cycle and took a step forward.
The cutesiness that had seeped into the brand was replaced with a somewhat cooler edge—note the ribbon-laced Dr Martens. There were still florals galore, but the prints that stood out made use of a palette Gianni Versace would have appreciated and featured rococo cartouches. Brights were also used for densely all-over beaded pieces, like the cardigan jacket in which Goya took her bow. Strass bras with loose back-laces that fluttered like streamers would be a sparkling addition to any wardrobe, to be worn alone or over or under other pieces. They might not be shocking, but they pointed the brand in a forward-moving direction and suggested that glamour can coexist with the softer prettiness with which Goya made her reputation.
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