Menswear is undergoing a noticeable shift away from stifling, body-hugging tailoring, and designer Pawan Sachdeva’s latest outing at Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI put that evolution front and centre. Titled ‘RECAST’, the collection took traditional artisanal techniques and translated them into contemporary streetwear, functional workwear, and modular evening separates.
Showstopped by actor Veer Pahariya, the presentation anchored its narrative on the breakdown of rigid suiting. Rather than presenting formalwear as unyielding single-occasion sets, Sachdeva engineered three-piece ensembles designed to be broken apart and worn as high-impact separates—blazers paired with casual layers, trousers styled down, and waistcoats worn independently.
“As a whole set, they make a complete garment,” Sachdeva explained. “But as separates, they leave a very good impact on the person wearing them: yes, I have one suit, and I can style it in different ways.”
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The construction relied heavily on indigenous, organic handlooms, with Kala Cotton, Khadi silk, Matka silk, and bouclé cut into fluid, anti-fit silhouettes. Traditional craft practices—including Bandhani, Shibori, Kasuti, and Kantha—were stripped of their conventional folk contexts and repurposed through modern textile washes, ombré dyes, and denim treatments. The result was a gender-fluid lineup that moved seamlessly between relaxed tailoring and utility outerwear across a base palette of indigo, ecru, black, and mustard.
For Sachdeva, the pivot toward anti-fit and relaxed tailoring is not merely a seasonal whim, but a permanent recalibration of the modern man’s wardrobe.
“The fits are totally changing,” Sachdeva noted. “A lot of Indian craft is being seen in international markets now, so there’s a major shift. People are admiring and encouraging Indian craft, and nobody wants body-hugging clothes anymore. They want relaxed and anti-fitting cuts.”
When asked what should define the upcoming festive palette, the designer pointed to a mix of neutrals and vibrant tones: “It’s going to be grey. It’s going to be burnt orange. It’s going to be shades of pink.”
As for the one trend he wants retired from the modern closet permanently? “Those skinny jeans.”
Between Pahariya’s structured runway appearance and the lineup’s versatile material play, ‘RECAST’ delivered a clean, wearable argument: heritage textiles do not need to be locked away in traditional frameworks to remain culturally relevant.
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