Turkey and Germany locked in legal spat over doner kebab with EU to settle dispute – ‘There’s no need for guidelines!’

Turkey and Germany are locked in a heated dispute over who gets to define the authentic doner kebab, with the European Commission stepping in to settle the matter by spring.

The conflict erupted after Turkey applied for special EU protection status for its version of the popular street food, which could force German vendors to dramatically change their recipe or abandon the name altogether.

The move has sparked outrage in Germany, where the doner kebab has become a national favourite, with over a billion sandwiches sold annually.

According to Turkey’s application, an authentic doner can only be made from chicken, lamb, or beef from cattle at least 18 months old, with meat marinated in yogurt and herbs.

The Turkish version must be served on a plate with chips and hot peppers.

This contrasts sharply with the German street-corner variety, which typically features veal in a flatbread sandwich topped with raw cabbage.

If Brussels sides with Ankara, German vendors would need to either follow Turkish preparation standards or stop using the doner name entirely.

“The doner belongs to Germany. Everyone should be allowed to decide for themselves how it is prepared and eaten here,” said Cem Özdemir, Germany’s food and agriculture minister, who has Turkish roots.

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Özdemir emphasised his position by posing in front of a sign reading “döner macht schöner” (doner makes you more beautiful), declaring “there’s no need for guidelines from Ankara.”

The Association of German Doner Makers has formally complained to the EU about Turkey’s application.

The association told The Telegraph that the kebab “has undergone significant further development in Germany” and warned that Turkey’s “rigid” rules would stifle innovation.

The doner kebab industry in Germany generates €2.3 billion (£1.9 billion) in annual sales, with nearly 20,000 kebab shops across the country.

Berlin alone hosts 1,800 doner establishments, and the “German doner” has become an international brand reaching London and New York.

The cost of living crisis has led to “donerflation,” with prices jumping from under €4 to over €6 since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

After social media users campaigned for a “doner price brake,” Chancellor Olaf Scholz responded, disappointing followers by refusing to subsidise the popular snack.

Omen Aslan, who runs Kebap Haus in east Berlin, says the doner’s German popularity stems from its combination of fresh ingredients and affordable prices.

“It is because of the fresh ingredients and the great taste – and because we always make it with love,” he told The Telegraph about his Kurdish-style kebabs.

Aslan opposes any EU regulations that would restrict doner definitions.

“I don’t think it’s a good idea because all kebabs have a different style and start,” he said. “It’s a different sauce and garnish from what we use with kebabs.”